16th July 2011
Prasad, Vedanth, Mum and myself started to Srisailam from Hyderabad @ 8:00 AM via Santhosh Nagar. We had our breakfast at home so that we don’t have to stop any where. Traffic was OK as we were against the city. Vedanth was quite exited as this was his first road trip with family in India. He was quite surprise to see more animals on busy road (from Jadcherla) almost equal to people. We took a quick drink break at Bijinapalle and on to the road again. There are fields of Sunflower, Tobacco and Rice that greet every one travelling on the road. We passed small villages and nondescript towns with Lambada Thanda. After travelling for almost 150 Kms or so, we reached Mannanur and the forest checkpost. I got down to sign our car at the checkpost and got ourselves some palli (Peanuts) to munch.
After travelling for 2-3 kms on ghat road, the smell of the forest/road not sure what that was, was amazing. We can see Nallamala forest region very clearly. The heights of the Nallamalai while the sunlight reflected from the depths of the reservoir entices every one to stop and drink the view. I just don’t want to close my car windows and want to enjoy every min of that travel in forest region. We saw many monkeys and huge snake pits on main roads. Some of the snake pits are as tall as 8 feet.
Prasad stopped about 60 kms before Srisailam. I got down and bought ourselves some hot Mirchbaggi’s and asked an old man what the places to visit around the region are? He suggested us to go to Mallelatheertham waterfalls. We straight took left and drove to Mallelatheertham waterfalls which is around 8 kms from main road. It is all Kachcha road and the weather was very hot. Parked our car and got down 350 steps. The water falls are just picture perfect. The best part is if you want you can easily go underneath the waterfalls. There is a Siva lingam underneath the falls. We heard from a group that even in hot summer the water never stopped dropping on the Siva Lingam. One local-ate also said, that was the place where Pandavas did there aranyavasam and constructed that lingam during their stay. Going down and climbing up the steps is totally worth the effort. I was worried about amma but mum was alright.
Prasad and Vedanth took there shirts off for the heat. Prasad started driving straight to Srisailam (yesm without shirt on Indian roads). I cannot believe we have already been through parts of India’s largest tiger sanctuary (it abuts into 4 districts). We stopped at the entrance of the reservoir as we saw many police cars stopped for security. The first sight of the reservoir itself will take your breath away. Prasad started talking with one of the constables and he said “the dam has been build across a natural forge downriver of small valleys that are now all underwater”. So we saw a vast sheet of water with hills rising sheer and forest covered with gently undulating and velvety green.
After enjoying the view for 15 min, we had an ice cream and started driving on the ghat road which snakes down to a bridge over the Krishna river. The view of the dam from the middle of the bridge is simply awesome. To get an amazing view of the gorge with rocky defiles towering high above us that was the best spot.
After crossing Egalapalli, we saw a big Lingam on the main road and that clearly says we entered into Srisailam temple region. By the time we reached near the temple it was 3:50pm. We stopped and had a light lunch and started finding information about hotels. We saw couple of big hotels and then ended up at “Kariveeni Satram” which was stones away from main temple. We dropped our luggage and went straight to temple.
“SRI SRISAILA BRAHMARAMBIKA MALLIKRJUNA SWAMI DEEVALAYAM”
The min I entered into the temple, there was some kind of peace. I am very lucky to go to the temple with the people whom I love most – my mum, mns and vedu. I started chanting “Om Namah Sivaya” from the min I entered the temple. The temple is not crowded like Tirupathi. We were able to enter into temple in an hour. Once we crossed the temple door (gummam) and walk little further we saw a big Nandhi. The sculptures on the pillars are amazing. Nandhi is almost 6 feet high. Passing
the nandhi we can see the main temple. Unlike many temples, here every one will be allowed to touch the Lingam and worship. Also, if one wishes one can perform Abhishekam oneself to the Lingam (Mallikarjuna Swamy) at the sanctum sanctorum. We missed the abishekam as this year we cannot perform pooja at any temple. The Lingam is quite small. After the Mallikarjuna swamy darshan we straight we went to Bhramarambha Devi sannidhi. This happens to be one of the Ashtadasa Shakthi Peetams. Had a great Darshan.
Straight from there we took prasadam and thought of going back to see other sannidhis but realised that we cannot go back. Outside walls are huge and the sculptures on them are incredible.
On our way to satram we say a man selling “Bhugharbha Dumpa” it is in the size of thabala (3-4 feet) and tasted like “sweet potato”. When asked where that root was grown he said it is grown in the forest and is very hard to take it out of ground. Some times if not taken out properly it may kill the person who digs the root. I should have taken a photo of it but we did not carry our camera. I tried to find it in internet but I could not find it either.
Back to satram, had dinner there and went to bed.
Day 2 – 17 July 2011
Woke up at 4:30 and got ready by 5:15. Had tea and started walking to the temple. We took 100 Rs ticket today and went straight to temple. We are very lucky to see Lingam from very close today as the gates are open. We saw it much clearer today than yesterday. Another speciality of Srisailam temple is it has two “Dvajha Sthambas” one in front of the temple and one at the back. I made sure I saw both of them today.
Came out and again went straight to Bhramarambha Devi sannidhi. After climbing few stairs we can see Lingam which was prayed by Sita. From there went inside and saw “Bhramarambha Devi” from very close (distance of 1 meter). Ho my lord now I know why it is one of the shakthi peetam and the power of the goddess in her eyes can be seen straight away. I saw her for almost 30 sec’s and I lost myself with that power. What a phenomenal experience indeed to see the Amma. We were so luck some one let us to go inside the temple and we got another opportunity to see Bhramarambha Devi yet AGAIN – she must have heard my pray (give us one more chance to see you).
Got out of the temple but we wanted to see other Shrines inside the temple which we missed yesterday. We are double lucky and were able to roam inside bhramarambha devi temple. In the main temple we can see all 18 Ashtadasa Shakthi Peetams, statues, names and location. We saw all of them and went down to see other Shrines inside Mallikarjuna Swami main temple.
Shrines inside the Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple:
1. Vrudhamallikarjuna Swamy:
This lingam is said to be oldest than the present Mallikarjuna swamy lingam. There is no Nandhi in front of it. The lingam is uneven on its outer face indicating its ancientness
2. Ardhanareeswar:
This oldest idol is in the northern side of the temple and its period is unknown.
3. Lingas installed by Pandavas:
4. Mallika Gundam (water well):
According to mythology, this Gundam was part of the Saraswathi river, which flows in the inner of the Krishna river. This Saraswathi river is called ‘Antaarvahine’ which means it is flowing along with other rivers i.e. Krishna. Many devotees used this Mallika Gundam water to heal their diseases. Another important aspect being that the shade of the Mallikarjuna shrine/ Gopuram is being reflected in this ‘Gundam’.
5. Addala (Mirror) Mandapam:
Place for Swamy where he takes rest in the nights. We got to swing the swamy.
6. Tri fruit tree (Triphala Vruksham):
Juvvi, Ravi and Medi plants together grown as one tree. It was said that Acharya Nagarjuna and others were given deeksha under this tree. There is a belief that childless couples will be blessed with child by doing pradakshina here.
7. Sri Rama and Sita Devi’s Sahasralingams:
Sahasra meaning thousand and 1000 lingas are carved in one linga. Sri Rama’s linga is situated in Mallikarjuna Swamy temple whereas Sita Devi’s is at the entrance of Bhramarambha Devi temple
After All the darshans in the temple, we came out and saw a branch of Kanchi Kamakoti peetam at the entrance of the temple, with shrines for Adi Shankara, Kumara swamy and Sri Sri Chandrasekharendra saraswathy. After going inside we found “Gayatri Mata” temple. The devine stone structure is so graceful I just stood there closing my eyes and recaptured her image - grace personified, as always. I wanted to sit there in front of goddess. I have no clue what made me to sit there but Prasad, Vedanth and Amma followed me and sat there.
Priest “Vishnubhatla Sastry” was telling us about the importance of Srisailam. One of the stories I heard is:
On every Sivaratri one nude empty handed man (Digambarudu) with ash full of his body (vibhudi) comes to main temple ties white cloths between two dhwaja sthambhas and perform some pooja and leaves empty handed. Every one cannot understand one thing is how is he able to produce such a long cloth and how is he tying the cloth from top of dhwajasthambam. No one knows from where is he coming and how and where he is going after that day. – I was astonished with this story. This happens every year and no one dares to stop him and ask why he is coming. Security people just let him go.
We got to see rare plants, bilva vruksham & Kadhamba vruksham (tree) inside the peetham.
Came out of the main temple and had breakfast and tea. Went to Satram and booked a Mahindra jeep to go to Ishta-kameshwari devi temple.
ISHTA KAMESHWARI DEVI TEMPLE
Ishta Kameshwari temple was located in the middle of a dense forest and in a tribal village. Jeep is the only mode of transport. There is NO ROAD whatsoever - one gets reminded of natural roller coaster. I had to pray that I should come back fully :). The roads are very rugged. I just cannot explain as they are all konda raallu and bandarallu. At one stage I started worrying about mum as the journey was literally very hard. I wanted to go by walk but without proper tools people are not supposed to walk on that kacha road as it is a thick forest.
After getting down from the Jeep we started walking towards Ganesh idol where everyone is constructing structures with stones. Tribal people believe that if we stack the stones we construct a house soon. So, we all started stacking the stones and started
having fun. After walking for 10 meters, there is a very small shrine of the Goddess. One needs to crouch and go through the small (3 feet) enclosure to have a Darshan of the Goddess. The speciality here is that, the devotees can apply kumkuma to the Goddess' forehead.
The forehead of the idol where traditional Hindu Bindi (Bottu) is kept is as soft as the forehead of an ordinary female. There is another reason why people come here. Puranas say whatever your wishes are, if you visit this goddess they will be fulfilled.
Had to comeback through the same road and at the end of the travel, I din't know which was where inside my body :). The travel will be difficult for people with back aches and weak spines but that was a GREAT experience!! All in one piece. Everyone had a sigh of relief once we entered normal road. I strongly recommend everyone to try this route. None of the adventure sports are near to this trip.
Jeep was stopped near sikhara darshanam. We asked mum if she is interested to go as we have to claim more than 300 steps but she said NO. So we had some cold drinks and went back to Satram.
By the time we reached satram it was lunch time so we went back to room and quickly changed and came down to have lunch. We had so much fun at the lunch spot with Mns trying to act as if he is a strict Brahmin with that funny accent. At last, we had lunch and went to room took 1 hr break to head back to Hyderabad.
** One more important thing to remember in Kariveeni satram is at the time of lunch/dinner, every male has to take there shirts off.
SAKSHI GANAPATHI
Our next destination was Sakshi Ganapati.
The Sakshi Ganapati Temple located at the hill town of Srisailam is placed under the backdrop of picturesque natural settings. This temple enshrines a black idol of Lord Ganesha (Ganapati). The traditional belief is that the Ganapathi in this temple keeps regular account of all the pilgrims to tender ‘Sakshyam’ (evidence) of their visit to this Kshetram and so named as Sakshi Ganapathi. The sculpture of this deity is exquisitely made holding a book in the left hand and a pen in the right hand in such a way as noting down the names of devotees. It is in practice that devotees during their return had the darshan of this Ganapathi and informed their name and gotra to him.
Prasad, Vedanth, Mum and myself started to Srisailam from Hyderabad @ 8:00 AM via Santhosh Nagar. We had our breakfast at home so that we don’t have to stop any where. Traffic was OK as we were against the city. Vedanth was quite exited as this was his first road trip with family in India. He was quite surprise to see more animals on busy road (from Jadcherla) almost equal to people. We took a quick drink break at Bijinapalle and on to the road again. There are fields of Sunflower, Tobacco and Rice that greet every one travelling on the road. We passed small villages and nondescript towns with Lambada Thanda. After travelling for almost 150 Kms or so, we reached Mannanur and the forest checkpost. I got down to sign our car at the checkpost and got ourselves some palli (Peanuts) to munch.
After travelling for 2-3 kms on ghat road, the smell of the forest/road not sure what that was, was amazing. We can see Nallamala forest region very clearly. The heights of the Nallamalai while the sunlight reflected from the depths of the reservoir entices every one to stop and drink the view. I just don’t want to close my car windows and want to enjoy every min of that travel in forest region. We saw many monkeys and huge snake pits on main roads. Some of the snake pits are as tall as 8 feet.
Prasad stopped about 60 kms before Srisailam. I got down and bought ourselves some hot Mirchbaggi’s and asked an old man what the places to visit around the region are? He suggested us to go to Mallelatheertham waterfalls. We straight took left and drove to Mallelatheertham waterfalls which is around 8 kms from main road. It is all Kachcha road and the weather was very hot. Parked our car and got down 350 steps. The water falls are just picture perfect. The best part is if you want you can easily go underneath the waterfalls. There is a Siva lingam underneath the falls. We heard from a group that even in hot summer the water never stopped dropping on the Siva Lingam. One local-ate also said, that was the place where Pandavas did there aranyavasam and constructed that lingam during their stay. Going down and climbing up the steps is totally worth the effort. I was worried about amma but mum was alright.
Prasad and Vedanth took there shirts off for the heat. Prasad started driving straight to Srisailam (yesm without shirt on Indian roads). I cannot believe we have already been through parts of India’s largest tiger sanctuary (it abuts into 4 districts). We stopped at the entrance of the reservoir as we saw many police cars stopped for security. The first sight of the reservoir itself will take your breath away. Prasad started talking with one of the constables and he said “the dam has been build across a natural forge downriver of small valleys that are now all underwater”. So we saw a vast sheet of water with hills rising sheer and forest covered with gently undulating and velvety green.
After enjoying the view for 15 min, we had an ice cream and started driving on the ghat road which snakes down to a bridge over the Krishna river. The view of the dam from the middle of the bridge is simply awesome. To get an amazing view of the gorge with rocky defiles towering high above us that was the best spot.
After crossing Egalapalli, we saw a big Lingam on the main road and that clearly says we entered into Srisailam temple region. By the time we reached near the temple it was 3:50pm. We stopped and had a light lunch and started finding information about hotels. We saw couple of big hotels and then ended up at “Kariveeni Satram” which was stones away from main temple. We dropped our luggage and went straight to temple.
“SRI SRISAILA BRAHMARAMBIKA MALLIKRJUNA SWAMI DEEVALAYAM”
The min I entered into the temple, there was some kind of peace. I am very lucky to go to the temple with the people whom I love most – my mum, mns and vedu. I started chanting “Om Namah Sivaya” from the min I entered the temple. The temple is not crowded like Tirupathi. We were able to enter into temple in an hour. Once we crossed the temple door (gummam) and walk little further we saw a big Nandhi. The sculptures on the pillars are amazing. Nandhi is almost 6 feet high. Passing
the nandhi we can see the main temple. Unlike many temples, here every one will be allowed to touch the Lingam and worship. Also, if one wishes one can perform Abhishekam oneself to the Lingam (Mallikarjuna Swamy) at the sanctum sanctorum. We missed the abishekam as this year we cannot perform pooja at any temple. The Lingam is quite small. After the Mallikarjuna swamy darshan we straight we went to Bhramarambha Devi sannidhi. This happens to be one of the Ashtadasa Shakthi Peetams. Had a great Darshan.
Straight from there we took prasadam and thought of going back to see other sannidhis but realised that we cannot go back. Outside walls are huge and the sculptures on them are incredible.
On our way to satram we say a man selling “Bhugharbha Dumpa” it is in the size of thabala (3-4 feet) and tasted like “sweet potato”. When asked where that root was grown he said it is grown in the forest and is very hard to take it out of ground. Some times if not taken out properly it may kill the person who digs the root. I should have taken a photo of it but we did not carry our camera. I tried to find it in internet but I could not find it either.
Back to satram, had dinner there and went to bed.
Day 2 – 17 July 2011
Woke up at 4:30 and got ready by 5:15. Had tea and started walking to the temple. We took 100 Rs ticket today and went straight to temple. We are very lucky to see Lingam from very close today as the gates are open. We saw it much clearer today than yesterday. Another speciality of Srisailam temple is it has two “Dvajha Sthambas” one in front of the temple and one at the back. I made sure I saw both of them today.
Came out and again went straight to Bhramarambha Devi sannidhi. After climbing few stairs we can see Lingam which was prayed by Sita. From there went inside and saw “Bhramarambha Devi” from very close (distance of 1 meter). Ho my lord now I know why it is one of the shakthi peetam and the power of the goddess in her eyes can be seen straight away. I saw her for almost 30 sec’s and I lost myself with that power. What a phenomenal experience indeed to see the Amma. We were so luck some one let us to go inside the temple and we got another opportunity to see Bhramarambha Devi yet AGAIN – she must have heard my pray (give us one more chance to see you).
Got out of the temple but we wanted to see other Shrines inside the temple which we missed yesterday. We are double lucky and were able to roam inside bhramarambha devi temple. In the main temple we can see all 18 Ashtadasa Shakthi Peetams, statues, names and location. We saw all of them and went down to see other Shrines inside Mallikarjuna Swami main temple.
Shrines inside the Mallikarjuna Swamy Temple:
1. Vrudhamallikarjuna Swamy:
This lingam is said to be oldest than the present Mallikarjuna swamy lingam. There is no Nandhi in front of it. The lingam is uneven on its outer face indicating its ancientness
2. Ardhanareeswar:
This oldest idol is in the northern side of the temple and its period is unknown.
3. Lingas installed by Pandavas:
4. Mallika Gundam (water well):
According to mythology, this Gundam was part of the Saraswathi river, which flows in the inner of the Krishna river. This Saraswathi river is called ‘Antaarvahine’ which means it is flowing along with other rivers i.e. Krishna. Many devotees used this Mallika Gundam water to heal their diseases. Another important aspect being that the shade of the Mallikarjuna shrine/ Gopuram is being reflected in this ‘Gundam’.
5. Addala (Mirror) Mandapam:
Place for Swamy where he takes rest in the nights. We got to swing the swamy.
6. Tri fruit tree (Triphala Vruksham):
Juvvi, Ravi and Medi plants together grown as one tree. It was said that Acharya Nagarjuna and others were given deeksha under this tree. There is a belief that childless couples will be blessed with child by doing pradakshina here.
7. Sri Rama and Sita Devi’s Sahasralingams:
Sahasra meaning thousand and 1000 lingas are carved in one linga. Sri Rama’s linga is situated in Mallikarjuna Swamy temple whereas Sita Devi’s is at the entrance of Bhramarambha Devi temple
After All the darshans in the temple, we came out and saw a branch of Kanchi Kamakoti peetam at the entrance of the temple, with shrines for Adi Shankara, Kumara swamy and Sri Sri Chandrasekharendra saraswathy. After going inside we found “Gayatri Mata” temple. The devine stone structure is so graceful I just stood there closing my eyes and recaptured her image - grace personified, as always. I wanted to sit there in front of goddess. I have no clue what made me to sit there but Prasad, Vedanth and Amma followed me and sat there.
Priest “Vishnubhatla Sastry” was telling us about the importance of Srisailam. One of the stories I heard is:
On every Sivaratri one nude empty handed man (Digambarudu) with ash full of his body (vibhudi) comes to main temple ties white cloths between two dhwaja sthambhas and perform some pooja and leaves empty handed. Every one cannot understand one thing is how is he able to produce such a long cloth and how is he tying the cloth from top of dhwajasthambam. No one knows from where is he coming and how and where he is going after that day. – I was astonished with this story. This happens every year and no one dares to stop him and ask why he is coming. Security people just let him go.
We got to see rare plants, bilva vruksham & Kadhamba vruksham (tree) inside the peetham.
Came out of the main temple and had breakfast and tea. Went to Satram and booked a Mahindra jeep to go to Ishta-kameshwari devi temple.
ISHTA KAMESHWARI DEVI TEMPLE
Ishta Kameshwari temple was located in the middle of a dense forest and in a tribal village. Jeep is the only mode of transport. There is NO ROAD whatsoever - one gets reminded of natural roller coaster. I had to pray that I should come back fully :). The roads are very rugged. I just cannot explain as they are all konda raallu and bandarallu. At one stage I started worrying about mum as the journey was literally very hard. I wanted to go by walk but without proper tools people are not supposed to walk on that kacha road as it is a thick forest.
After getting down from the Jeep we started walking towards Ganesh idol where everyone is constructing structures with stones. Tribal people believe that if we stack the stones we construct a house soon. So, we all started stacking the stones and started
having fun. After walking for 10 meters, there is a very small shrine of the Goddess. One needs to crouch and go through the small (3 feet) enclosure to have a Darshan of the Goddess. The speciality here is that, the devotees can apply kumkuma to the Goddess' forehead.
The forehead of the idol where traditional Hindu Bindi (Bottu) is kept is as soft as the forehead of an ordinary female. There is another reason why people come here. Puranas say whatever your wishes are, if you visit this goddess they will be fulfilled.
Had to comeback through the same road and at the end of the travel, I din't know which was where inside my body :). The travel will be difficult for people with back aches and weak spines but that was a GREAT experience!! All in one piece. Everyone had a sigh of relief once we entered normal road. I strongly recommend everyone to try this route. None of the adventure sports are near to this trip.
Jeep was stopped near sikhara darshanam. We asked mum if she is interested to go as we have to claim more than 300 steps but she said NO. So we had some cold drinks and went back to Satram.
By the time we reached satram it was lunch time so we went back to room and quickly changed and came down to have lunch. We had so much fun at the lunch spot with Mns trying to act as if he is a strict Brahmin with that funny accent. At last, we had lunch and went to room took 1 hr break to head back to Hyderabad.
** One more important thing to remember in Kariveeni satram is at the time of lunch/dinner, every male has to take there shirts off.
SAKSHI GANAPATHI
Our next destination was Sakshi Ganapati.
The Sakshi Ganapati Temple located at the hill town of Srisailam is placed under the backdrop of picturesque natural settings. This temple enshrines a black idol of Lord Ganesha (Ganapati). The traditional belief is that the Ganapathi in this temple keeps regular account of all the pilgrims to tender ‘Sakshyam’ (evidence) of their visit to this Kshetram and so named as Sakshi Ganapathi. The sculpture of this deity is exquisitely made holding a book in the left hand and a pen in the right hand in such a way as noting down the names of devotees. It is in practice that devotees during their return had the darshan of this Ganapathi and informed their name and gotra to him.
There are 10 steps to reach the sanctum of this temple. The temple is nestled among dense woody trees. The location is calm and the environment is tempting. The surroundings are clean and tidy and suitable for prayers and meditation.
After coming out from temple we saw some roots (mulikalu) and herbs used for Aurvedic medicine, which we rarely get to see. While talking to the shop keeper he said “Srinatha (maha kavi) the renowed poet of 14th Century A.D. in his Kasikhandam states that this Sakshi Ganapathi is visualized by sage Agasthya during his pilgrimage to Srisailam”.
Prasad drove from Srisailam to Hyderabad non-stop and by the time we reached home it was 7:00 PM. It was an awesome journey. Vedanth was very happy to see a new place. I am very pleased to see Vedanth donating 10 - 100 Rs notes where ever he saw the beggars.
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